La' Shukran is 'No. Thank you.' Or is it 'No, thank you'? It's both. Or it's neither. Or it's neither and both at the same time. It's a quick 'la', shukran' to a persistent vendor in the Arab Souk, and it's 'la' shukran 'ala wajib' (a form of 'you're welcome' meant to convey respect and esteem). Behind an arched, nearly unmarked door at the rear of a historic building in Union Market, Arabic-tinged elevator music drifts down a long flight of tiled stairs leading to La' Shukran, a modern reimagin